'The Crown' Season Four Costumes Will Show a 'Fantastic Journey' For Princess Diana and Camilla
Emmy-nominated designer Amy Roberts takes up the royal highlights of the third season again and drops some exciting teasers on the upcoming one.
In real life, the British monarchy will continue to provide royal obsessives (and occasional observers) with romance, drama, intrigue, and adorable children's content for years to come. But on the small screen, "The Crown" - which records Queen Elizabeth II's reign - ends with a fifth and final season. But it's not over yet.
The third season, which Netflix released before a life last November, begins in the mid-1960s, along with a new cast: Oscar-winning (and seasoned on-screen royal) Olivia Colman takes on Claire Foy as Elizabeth and two. Zeit Oscar nominee Helena Bonham Carter takes on the role of her impulsive younger sister, Princess Margaret. (Incidentally, the real Princess Margs once cast a reserved shadow over Bonham Carter's acting skills.)
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"The Crown" not only spills plenty of royal tea and reveals political machinations behind the scenes, but also offers lavish and sprawling costumes. Former costume designers Michele Clapton ("Game of Thrones") and Jane Petrie ("The King") won the Emmy Awards for season one and two. As with the cast, seasons three and four introduce a new costume tour: Amy Roberts.
Queen Elizabeth II (Olivia Colman) and her corgis.
"Now it's very different," says the Emmy nominee for "Upstairs, Downstairs" from 2011 on the phone from the UK.
Roberts liked to play with more color that was suitable from the mid-1960s to the groovy 70s - a "sugared almond" palette for the Queen and shades that were suitable for Margaret, who was briefly married to Lord Tony Snowden " darker "and" bruised "(Ben Daniels) feels worse.
"They have four very different women," explains Roberts. "You have the Queen, who is pretty stylish, but she is the Queen. Her role is quite sober and matriarchal. She has now taken her position on the throne, so she is more sober." Suitable for a queen, however, she enjoys an outfit change for almost every scene, so that the costume department puts together more than 80 outfits for Elizabeth to wear over 10 episodes.
For Margaret, the team created about 40 bespoke looks for the party-loving king, "who is much more precise, stylish, and dangerous," continues Roberts. "The Queen Mother has the look that the Queen Mother always has: a bit messy, slightly blouse. These generations of royal women nod to fashion, but they are not high fashion. But Princess Anne is our youngest member, so she will be a bit like one Bringing the silhouette of the 1960s: the mini skirts and the polo necks. "
(L-R) Princess Anne (Erin Doherty), Queen Mother (Marion Bailey), Princess Margaret (Helena Bonham Carter) and Tony (Ben Daniels).
Prince Charles (Josh O'Connor, "Emma"), in his tweedy checks from Prince of Wales and fine wool knitwear, turns 20. He meets Camilla Shand (Emerald Fennell), his real love, which - real spoiler - Warning - finally marries in 2005. (Oh, "The Crown" episode that will never be.)
Season four started filming immediately after three packed. The increasingly aggressive paparazzi filmed many scenes in which Princess Diana (Emma Corrin) and former Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher (Gillian Anderson) filmed the penultimate episode that barely completed production before the Covid-19 shutdown in the UK. Does not affect the costume department .
"With all of these bespoke pieces, you have to be ahead of the game," explains Roberts. Her couture house-like department worked regularly on a three-week to one-month schedule, particularly for the "ceremonial" principles.
"It was actually a huge scene with Diana on the last day and that was it," she continues. "We made a bang, you know. A huge scene with her in New York, and that was it. No more shooting."
The fourth season runs until 1989, when Princess Diana made a solo trip to New York City before she split up with Charles in 1992 - actually shot in Manchester, England. Corrin played the People's Princess and was photographed in a stunning replica of a gold-embroidered, pearl-embellished Victor Edelstein dress and a bolero jacket that Diana was wearing to attend a gala production of "Falstaff" by the Welsh National Opera at the Brooklyn Academy of Music .
While "The Crown" is eagerly awaiting the announcement of a fourth season release of Netflix, Roberts is revisiting some of the costumes and highlights behind the scenes of three with Fashionista, including Colman's reaction to Queen Margaret II's intimidating Investiture helmet Princess Margaret's historic imprecise visiting dress in the White House and Prince Charles and Camilla's imaginary cute outfits. And yes, the costume designer drops more teasers for the upcoming season, including Princess Diana's "Fantastic Journey".
Queen Elizabeth, her hat and Prince Philip investing in Prince Charles.
Her replicas for Queen Elizabeth II were as accurate as the fur-trimmed coat she wore Aberfan (episode three) and her investiture suit - especially the hat. What was the most difficult costume and why?
The Investiture costume with this extraordinary hat. In "The Crown" you have key moments with actual events that we know about. [The pictures are] a lot to see on film and photos, and you recognize these looks. I hate to say we "copy" them. I think we'll hopefully nod a little bit of ourselves.
But that was quite a challenge, because everyone knew the extraordinary medieval hat that the queen wore. [We made ours] from a very fine satin georgette and to get this color, this pale, curdled cream color, [was a challenge]. For Olivia that was also quite a challenge. She is a remarkable actress you can work with as you can imagine. It just lets you do your job. But even she looked slightly crooked when this hat came out. But she went with Olivia.
In the fifth episode, the Queen visits Normandy in civilian clothes.
Which Queen Elizabeth II costume gave you the most creative freedom because it wasn't a replica?
I really like it when I imagine dealing with the real woman. There are a number of outfits [in Episode 5] in which she is very busy sorting her stables and does not do her horses very well. And she leaves her [royal] role in her mother's care and goes with Lord Porchey [John Hollingworth] [to Normandy, France, and then Kentucky].
I loved doing it that way. In Macs [trench coats] and blouses and skirts and head scarves. The scarves look so cool. People can really relate to that now with the slightly Prada and Miu Miu-style shirts, blouses, and colors we chose. Once she eats, she doesn't wear a long dress. It is in pretty attractive - well, I think they were beautiful - floral silk dresses.
I loved seeing, pretending, or imagining this side of her; this kind of upper middle class country woman who does things she loved. Spending [time with] her horses - not that there are many dogs in this episode - she is probably most comfortable with. Olivia looked fantastic in these dresses. It is like glowing in a way.
Everyone assumes that [my favorites] are all great ball gowns that are very nice to make. But I like doing this more real element of people. That other side. 'The Crown' gives you this fantastic opportunity - the big, glamorous moment out there - and there are many very intimate personal things that you don't know what to wear or what to say, but you can let your imagination do it with this and that's nice to do.
Princess Margaret (Helena Bonham Carter) and Tony (Ben Daniels) visit the White House.
In the second episode, Princess Margaret goes to the White House to visit President and Ladybird Johnson and secure US aid. They designed a flowery, shoulder-free dress that made sense for them to trade dirty limericks with POTUS. But in real life, Princess Margaret wore a pink long-sleeved jacket over her dress. What was the inspiration for the design change and what do the print and silhouette tell us about them?
I just wanted to be a little bolder and more surprising. I only remember when we saw this fabric in one of the stores, I thought, "That's it. That's it! Let's use that for this [part]. 'Sometimes things pop out of you, don't you? It is also a representation of Margaret by an exceptional woman, Helena Bonham Carter. Somehow you take that with you on board. With Helena you could go a little further and she would just be brave and brave with it.
On the subject of matching items:
'The Crown' costume designer about dressing a royal wedding, Jackie Kennedy and the Swinging '60s in season two
How the costume designer "Game of Thrones" dressed a young Queen Elizabeth II in Netflix's "The Crown"
The special possibilities behind the scenes, how museums bring costume exhibitions to life
Princess Anne in the palace.
Princess Anne is considered a fashion icon and as a young woman in the late 60s and 70s, she was able to shift the fashion envelope and wear things like jeans and mini skirts. How did you use her costume to show her as the more independent in the family?
I don't think she represented the wild 1960s. But the mini skirts - the short skirts - that she wore represented the 1960s in a kind of chic girl. The first picture we had of her was written as Anne in breeches in the script. It blew everything up, didn't it? Here is this girl strutting through the palace in breeches and boots - I think that's how it was written - that was my great guide on how we would deal with her.
There's a little shot of her [in episode 6] when she visits her brother, when he performs the play, and when she's in the audience. She's wearing a baker's hat from the 1960s, but there's nothing extreme about her. It's kind of reasonable. It brings the balance of this youthful audacity, but she is still a princess.
I enjoyed the scene where a buttoned Prince Charles calls her from Wales because he's homesick. She's in her room in the palace - and it's all messy - and she's wearing high-waisted flare jeans and a long-sleeved Hawaiian T-shirt.
[That] was a scene where you could do that. She is on her own and I like it a lot because it was in contrast to Charles, who can never be relaxed. He is at the university. He still wears these little old men's dresses like tweed jackets and sweaters. I mean, he looks adorable because the actor is pretty adorable, doesn't he? [Ed. Note: Yes.] He never lets his hair hang in any way. So it was pretty funny that she was dressed like this and he was wearing corduroy pants or pants - at that time they were called pants - and a sweater.
It was really funny, the director of this episode, Christian Schwochow, is quite young himself and also German. So his view of the royal family was very refreshing and we wanted to blow him out of the water as much as possible.
Camilla Shand (Emerald Fennell) and Charles have a coffee.
What inspiration and process did you go through to design and create the costumes for imaginary scenes between Charles and Camilla?
In this early period there are very few references to them. With Camilla it's a sexy chic girl with, I dare say, not a lot of style. Why should she? Why should she have that? So it's just the Sloane Ranger girl. We were just trying to attune ourselves to their activities in the country. After marrying in series four [Andrew Parker Bowles, played by Andrew Buchan], she suddenly looks a lot more. She lives the life she wants to have in the country [as part of the] country. It was probably a small point about what she had become. It's fun, relaxed and doesn't particularly like clothes.
In series three you know that in series four you will see many of these people again. So they give little hints of what they will be when they are a little older and more sedentary. And people have a style. You change, of course, but you are what you are. You just become a little more sophisticated or a little more confident.
Speaking of which, pictures of Emma Corrin as Princess Diana in famous photographed outfits (or variations thereof) were caught by paparazzi. How does Diana's place as an international fashion icon influence how you designed her portrayal in season four?
Well, it was brilliant to do because it has a real trip in four. Most of them do, but in particular she has a fantastic journey again - a real bow - like Camilla. We're starting with a cute little Sloane Ranger wearing rickety old sweaters, and you've made a dramatic change. A complete manipulation of their appearance. As if she was putting on armor to protect herself. That’s all we’ll say.
The royal family enjoyed a casual moment at home in season three premiere.
What clues can you give about the other members of the royal family in season four?
The queen grows in her role and her marriage. I always say that, but whatever she has or had in marriage [she and Philip, played by Tobias Menzies] have found a way to deal with how many marriages. It's just everyone who matures.
And Margaret - this very stormy relationship she had with Tony in the beginning is getting more and more poisonous. Of course, her life will be a real mess in four years, and we can only illustrate that with her clothes. But the colors are a lot more boring and bruised, and their extravagance of three is a bit toned down now. Charles actually matures into a married man, quite stylish, but again an unhappy marriage. And good old Queen Mum stays the same. Beautiful queen mom. I love her.
For the sake of clarity, this interview was edited and condensed.
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